Food Review: The Best of English Countryside @ Derby Restaurant and Bar

Running a restaurant in a fast moving Metropolitan city in Hong Kong has never been easy. Continuously new idea and element are always required in order to attract new customer and keep old ones. Loyal customers seemed to be old school and not reliable anymore if a restaurant would like to be profitable. There was no exception to prestige club; including Hong Kong Jockey Club.

HKJC has 3 club houses located in Hong Kong, Kowloon and New Territories. Dining facilities are comprehensive; Chinese, Western and international cuisine are served. Derby restaurant in Happy Valley was known to be a classic, elegant, fine dining place aim to offer diners an unsurpassed dining experience. It is a perfect place for anniversary and whoever looks for unforgettable experience. Having said so, keen competition from hotels and other fine dining restaurants are threatening. Derby has to offer special features regularly to draw members’ attention. Current Happening: The Best of English Country Side runs from 3 July to 31 August. It just fit in my schedule this year. I decided to come over to celebrate my birthday.

“There were many small farms in England, heritage breeds and grass-fed cattle and sheep make for the best beef and lamb: leaner, high in good fats, natural minerals and vitamins. Chef de Cuisine Leong Ngo-cham has created a menu that tastes as good as it is good for you.” That was the description of the event. It successfully arise my interest.

Being one of the oldest prestige clubs in Hong Kong, Happy Valley Club House is no doubt elegant. It keeps her colonial style on the decoration. Modern classic is the theme of the interior design. Wood and paintings are widely used. In particularly for Derby, there is a huge wine cellar. Every month, Derby offers member’s choice. It was an enjoyable walk at the corridor with wine cellar on the side.

5-course menu was simple but well planned; appetizer, soup, fish, meat and dessert. Only soup and meat have choice. I felt like to have a cold soup tonight due to hot summer. For meat, I always like lamb than beef.

Bread and Butter

A waitress showed us a big basket with about 6 types of bread to choose from. They all smelt fresh from oven. She introduced them so quickly that I could not catch up for all. Luckily, I was still able to pick by their appearance. Amongst all, black ink bun caught my eye ball. I also picked a soft bun and a wheat bread to be with.

Bamboo charcoal bread has been a new phenomenon and was hot. This black ink bun certainly looked alike and tasted the same. It was neither sweet nor salty, match well with butter. Soft inside and crispy outside, no doubt freshly made.

I was so happy that amuse-bouches were served. Amuse bouche used to offer a glimpse into the chef's approach to the art of cuisine. They indeed impressed me.

 Amuse Bouche No 1 – melon and crab meat

A beautify red color tiny cube with white stuff on the top in a big plate was served. It was also decorated by a piece of green and yellow.

It was certainly could be eaten in one bite. Surprising the cube was made of melon and the spread was crab meat. The combination was new to my palate but perfectly match. The sweet and juicy melon and the creamy chewable crab meat immediately melt in my mouth was very refreshing and appetite stimulating.

Amuse Bouche No 2 – cheese and foam

Appearance of the second amuse bouche looked like a mini pasta at my first sight. However, it was a shedder of cheddar cheese in a pool of vanilla potato foam. The brothers were in good harmony. 

The creamy foam added smoothness to the cheese and they were just so cheesy. What a great combination! Simple but sophisticated!

Foie Gras Terrine

 5-course menu started with a delightful dish painted as an art. It was just another creative idea. Sweet shrimp and foie gras were both popularly used as appetizer. However, I never thought they could be paired.

A whole piece of sweet shrimp was placed on top of a narrow cut foie gras terrine. So, they both have same thickness. A piece of pink ginger jelly and green were added to enhance the appearance. The dish was also decorated by prune and vinegar drops.

Sweet shrimp was fried but the texture was fresh and soft as raw. Foie Gras Terrine was smooth and seasoned by sweet sauce. The sweetness of shrimp and foie gras terrine were alternatively changing in my mouth that pleased my palate so much. Aided by the seasoning and sweet shrimp, the dish was not heavy at all.

The dish also came with 2 pieces of tiny toast. Toast and Foie Gras Terrine were always perfect partners.

Tomato Gazpacho

No matter what, foie gras terrine was relatively stuffy. I was glad to make the right choice. A cold, sweet and sour tomato soup successfully reduced any left behind greasy feel if any.

Tomata Gazpacho was touched up by crab meat and a mouse made of cucumber and basil.  Strong aroma of cucumber and basil were hidden and did not affect the lovely sweet and sour taste of tomato soup. This combination was also new to me and indeed very refreshing.

Seared Scallops

This dish was a piece of art, qualified for a full mark simply by its appearance. It was like a layer biscuit; with an interesting bird nest kind of cracker on the top. It was black in color, very thin and delicate. Underneath was pan fried scallops in the middle and caramelized onions at the bottom. Furthermore, it was filled with chardonnay cream.

6 pieces of scallop was the key, fried to golden brown color but still juicy. The contrast amongst these 3 layers balanced well with each other. It was so satisfying with freshness, crunchy, juicy and fresh in one bite.

Sorbet

A citrus favor sorbet was served to clean up our palate before enjoying coming main course.

Herb Crusted English Rack of Lamb

Cooked in a traditional way, the herbs gave freshness to the rich lamb. Roast lamb sounds easy but experience mattered. Of course, a good piece of meat was always most important.

It was such a think cut, roast medium so that inner meat remained pink and juicy. The roast was just right, super tender and delicious. Extra sauce was provided and abundant on the plate. I could find some fat under the skin but they were not greasy. As said, best of English meat has good fat and leaner. Eat well and stay healthy!

Cucumber, orange puree and garlic were placed nicely on the side. They enhanced appearance more than anything but tasted fine, too.

Coconut and Malibu

Presented beautifully as another piece of art, this dessert was made of coconut sorbet, coconut sago, fresh pineapple chunks, custard, chopped biscuits and a piece of sweet cracker.

This is rich but light at the same time.

Birthday Cake

I did not expect a birthday cake for my self-arranged dinner. However, this was complimentary and thanks for my companion. Tiramisu was always irresistible. Coffee, coco power, heavy whipped cream, mascarpone cheese and wine contributed to the creation. They were devils but mouth-watering.

It was smooth and at appropriate sweetness.

Peppermint Tea & Petit Four

At last, tea and petit four compliment the dinner. Four pieces of chocolate and macaroon were all have their own characters. One was plain and the other three was filled with wine, nut or cream.  

We could not finish the whole birthday cake. This take-away box was also very decent.

This was certainly a great dinner with excellent service, environment and good food. There was no complaint. Price was also very reasonable and definitely worthwhile. 

Taste: 4/5

Decor: 5/5

Service: 5/5

Hygiene: 5/5
Value: 5/5

Derby Restaurant and Bar

Hong Kong Jockey Club
B/F & 1/F, Happy Valley Club House
Shan Kwong Road
Happy Valley